Build a mini-greenhouse

pumpkins, beans, soy beans survive low 40's in a mini greenhouse

Why build a mini-greenhouse? Well, even if you have a sunny windowsill inside, chances are it only gets sun part of the day. If you're sprouting tomatoes or squash, which will be on the sill for a month or so until the nights are warm enough to be outside, they'll get "leggy". In other words, they won't have the amount of light they'd prefer, so they'll be stretching to reach the sun. Leggy starts don't look so good, although they'll do o.k. once in the ground. They will be weaker plants than those that get the light they need.

One solution is to buy a grow light station, with electric lights suspended over the seedlings. These can be expensive, but you can find inexpensive ones. It's a fine solution to the problem, although if you are like me perhaps you want to try to grow your food without the use of fossil fuels. (as much as possible--after all, I use plastic pots...)

A greenhouse gives the plant the light it needs, along with protection from the cold. Most people living in the city don't have the space for a greenhouse, and they can be costly. A mini-greenhouse is a plastic covered frame tall enough to accommodate young plants as they grow, and provide protection from the cold. It's easy to make one. Here's one I made out of old metal coat hangers and discarded plastic sheeting from the laminating machine at the school where I work.

You'll need: wire coat hangers, flexible wire to attach, wire cutters, pliers, plastic sheeting, heavy duty clear plastic tape, and some patience.

I used a planting tray to size the greenhouse. That way, once the pots are inside, the top will stay in place without any other secures. Shape the wire coat hangers with the pliers and attach them with the flexible wire. Cut the plastic sheeting to fit the frame, and tape it in place. (I did this one frame at a time). I put the top on a "hinge" made out of three pieces of flexible wire poked through the plastic sheeting, and attaching the cover to the body. An improvement to this design would be a way to fasten the cover to the body when closed--it stays closed if it isn't windy, but when the wind blows, the top comes open, which exposes the plants to the cold.

During the day, with temps in the high 50's or 60's, it's fine to have the top open--even desireable, since the inside can be 10 to 15 degrees warmer on a cloudy day. In the full sun, they might cook. At night, with the cover closed, the plants inside will stay in the 50's when outside temps are in the 40's. You do have to watch them to keep them moist, but they won't dry out as often as plants in the open do. Notice that the plants are not in airtight conditions, which would encourage mold.